Category: Trip Reports Page 1 of 77

Scotland, the Northwest Highlands; the perfect expedition venue to take a Volan 160 and Cetus MV for an adventure…

On February 19, 2024

Words by Doug Cooper

Photos by Doug Cooper & Pete Astles

Every year, my good friend Pete Astles from Peak PS and I block out two weeks in our diary for a Scottish sea kayaking adventure – the primary aim is to get away from it all and have fun. Last year was no exception, and on a warm and sunny June day, we found ourselves in the Northwest Highlands just north of Ullapool on a stony beach, getting ready to set off for 8 days ‘away from it all’. It was that usual start of a trip; two big piles of kit sat alongside two empty sea kayaks, the two of us wondering if it would all fit! Kit for a self-support trip of this length is nothing we are not used to, but our trip was going to take us initially through the Summer Isles where water was scarce, so we needed to fit in extra water; alongside some of the extra comforts two slightly more ageing adventurers now look to take on trips!

I was packing my trusty Cetus MV that I have paddled for many years now, but Pete was in a new Volan 160 that he was looking forward to trying out, and I was very interested to see how it’d compare with my Cetus! I must admit I was sceptical the Volan 160 would fit all of Pete’s kit in, but it passed this first test with flying colours – everything was in, and its carrying capacity seemed not too restrictive compared to the Cetus.

With perfect weather and a myriad of islands to explore, wild campsites to savour and breathtaking scenery to take in, we spent the next five days exploring every nook and cranny of the beautiful Summer Isles. Evenings were spent enjoying watching the sun set over the distant Outer Hebrides, whilst days were spent venturing between the islands, landing on the beaches, and exploring the caves; all under the watchful eye of the resident wildlife and the towering sentinels that are the surrounding Assynt Mountains.

Whilst exploring the islands, we decided to swap kayaks each day, both wanting to discover the performance differences between our two boats. In the calm conditions, both kayaks cut through the water like a dream, with the Volan 160 consistently surprisingly fast – how could this shorter and wider boat maintain its speed so well was our constant source of discussion; the anticipated ‘faster’ Cetus was not leaving the Volan behind that was for sure. Enjoying exploring the caves, arches, and rocks, the manoeuvrability of a kayak makes such a difference to the ease of what can be achieved; we both had to agree the Volan 160 top trumped the Cetus MV big time when it came to this!

Leaving the Summer Isles behind, our journey continued around the dramatic headland of Rubha Coigeach, with expansive views west to the Hebrides, north to Cape Wrath, and east into the mighty Assynt mountains, a sight to behold. A stunning beach provided our camp for the night, a perfect end to this magical day; however, with the sun setting, the forecast advised us all was to change for the next few days. Waking to a sea of white horses, we planned a conservative route to take us ever north, where we planned to finish at Lochinver. Setting off, we enjoyed a ‘playful’ force 5-6 to get us going, but by the early afternoon, this had evolved into a ‘robust’ force 7-8, and thus, a downwind surf to shelter was required.

The ‘playful’ and then ‘robust’ conditions again provided a great opportunity to test how the two kayaks performed. It was obvious that the Cetus MV tracked a bit better in the side winds, but that said, with appropriate trim and skeg, the Volan 160 was certainly easy enough to keep on track. When the robust conditions asked for stability, manoeuvrability, and confidence-inspiring from the kayaks, then neither let us down. That said, in the Volan 160, it was obvious less effort was required to turn in the conditions, and there was definite extra stability to allow for a slightly more ‘relaxed’ as opposed to ‘focussed’ look on our faces! As for the Force 8 downwind surf – well, that certainly put a big smile on both our faces in our respective craft. However, when it came to cutting about on the following sea waves, the Volan 160 won the price for minimum effort and maximum style, but when it came to getting to the shore first in a straight line at speed, the Cetus MV was there to welcome the Volan ashore!

June in the far Northwest Highlands provides close to twenty-four hours of daylight, so, having sheltered from the wind all afternoon, we could make use of a late evening calm period to continue our journey. Our last camp was on the outskirts of Lochinver, where the following morning we could catch a bus to return us to our car. After our brief stormy period, it provided a tranquillity that could be savoured more than usual as we sat and watched the sunset one last time. It allowed us to reflect on our 8 days ‘away from it all’, chat about sights seen and experiences lived, and, of course, most importantly of all, plan where we will head for the following year’s two-week adventure – already in the diary. The final question to ponder, will I be joining Pete in paddling a Volan 160 for the trip – I think I might be!

Paddling over Grass on Slovenian’s Intermittent Lakes

By Carmen Kuntz

On December 12, 2023

In Trip Reports

words: Carmen Kuntz
photos: Rok Rozman

In Slovenia, we are spoiled. We are used to paddling on water so clear you can see the bottom of the river or sea. But looking down and seeing dandelions, clover, and grass dancing in the current… is a whole new water world to discover.

This is an intermittent lake, a rare phenomenon worldwide, but a common occurrence in Slovenia. This isn’t a flood event or any reason to panic. This happens a couple of times a year when the underwater aquifers fill up and overflow, covering the farm fields with a layer of clear, clean spring water. Locals have been living with these hide-and-seek lakes for centuries, and they are wise. They don’t live too close to the ‘lake’ even when it’s just green grass. And they pay close attention to Mother Nature’s cues and get livestock and tractors off the fields before they fill up with water.

Fall in Slovenia is always rainy, and this year we decided to leave the swollen Soča for an afternoon and get to know these wild little lakes. Planinsko Polje is located near the village of Unec, about a 30-minute drive southwest of Ljubljana. Her sister lake is much more famous, called Lake Cerknica, but we were drawn in by the beauty of the sun bouncing off the smaller Planinsko Polje and the Unica River that gets lost in the lake’s volume and decided to save Cerknica for another day.

We put on and found the flow of the river by following the direction of the grass flowing under our boats. Drifting over wildflowers, cow patties, and farm fences, we got caught in the current and drifted along, stopping to explore all the little bays along the way.

We were bird-watching from under raincoat hoods. Sipping tea from a thermos while floating under massive oak trees. And paddling over gravel roads – we had full freedom to drift wherever we wanted.

It was an afternoon spent reiterating the freedom a kayak and paddle gives us and served as an aquatic reminder to take time to explore water, in all her moods and forms. In all weather and seasons. Flat, flowing and everything in between.

Carmen and Rok are both pictured here paddling the P&H Leo; at 16′ in length, it’s an excellent choice for such inland waterway adventures.

Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium 2023. More than a Sea Kayak event

By chrislockyer

On December 6, 2023

In Trip Reports

Celebrating a decade of the Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium fills us with overwhelming joy and pride as we declare this year’s instalment to be our most exceptional offering to date. Beyond being a mere paddling event, the symposium has blossomed into a vibrant gathering, uniting community members, local businesses, passionate paddlers, and skilled coaches for an unforgettable weekend filled with extraordinary experiences on and off the water.

The exponential growth of camaraderie, community dedication, and shared enthusiasm is a source of immense pride, making this milestone anniversary a living testament to the positive impact the Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium has had on fostering connections and creating lasting memories. With a foundation rooted in commitment, integrity, and a focus on the long game, the symposium stands as a beacon for those who cherish not only the thrill of paddling but also the enduring bonds and positive community spirit that enrich our lives. Here’s to a decade filled with joyous paddling, continuous learning, and the ongoing building of a community that celebrates the love of the sea and adventure!

Highlight for this year’s symposium

A surge of enthusiasm and anticipation filled the air as 74 sea kayak students, guided by a dedicated team of 18 coaching staff, embarked on a thrilling three-day paddling adventure. Behind the scenes, the success of this year’s symposium was fuelled by the hard work and countless hours of dedication by numerous volunteers. Their meticulous planning and unwavering commitment ensured flawless session execution, showcasing seamless coordination and teamwork. As the kayaks gracefully navigated the water, not only were skills strengthened, but a profound sense of camaraderie and shared enjoyment blossomed among the participants. This immersive experience was not just a testament to the adventure on the water but also to the dedication and hard work behind the scenes that made this symposium an extraordinary success. Here’s to celebrating the triumph of this remarkable paddling adventure, cherished by all who partook in this aquatic journey!

We are elated to share the fantastic news of yet another triumphant lobster supper at Ye Old Argyler! Our heartfelt gratitude extends to Alexster Fisheries Limited for their generous contribution of the finest lobsters, elevating our delightful evening. Special thanks are also due to Tusket Toyota for their invaluable sponsorship, making this event possible and enhancing the overall experience for all attendees. This lobster dinner’s success is not only attributed too exceptional seafood but also to the hard work and dedication of countless volunteers who played crucial roles behind the scenes. Their efforts, combined with fantastic community support, made this event truly memorable. Here’s to another year of joyous gatherings and delicious moments, a testament to the collaborative spirit that brings our community together!

P&H Team Paddler Adam Harmer with his team Sunday during the symposium.

The community dinner at the West Pubnico Fire Hall was an undeniable success, fostering warmth and camaraderie among neighbours. Our sincere appreciation goes to Committed 2 the Core Sea Kayak Coaching for their support and the delightful complements beer sourced from Tusket Fall Brewing, adding a unique touch to the event. The success of this community dinner was made possible not only by the generosity of contributors but also by the hard work and dedication of the countless volunteers who devoted many hours to ensure its success. The West Pubnico ladies auxiliary plus members of the fire department made the whole meal amazing. Witnessing the positive impact of these collaborations transforms a simple gathering into an extraordinary occasion. A heartfelt thank you to all who contributed to making our community dinner a truly special and thriving event!

Testimonial from Coach Sid Sinfield And P&H team Paddler

“It was great to get across to the Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium. It was a really well-organised and executed event, as always. It is great to see an event that links with the local community to help them understand why we all descend upon their local area to explore its beautiful coastline. I can’t think of another event that does this. Likewise, taking the time to organize an additional ‘coaches day’ for those attending to be able to take the opportunity for some shared learning. Helping to connect the coaching community from across North America and wider. The event allowed those involved to explore the amazing coastline that this part of Nova Scotia has to offer. A great event and one not to be missed.”

P&H Team Paddler Sid Sinfiled calling students’ names at morning briefing.

Testimonial from Donna Hendy Bay of fundy participant.

BOFSS was an excellent all ‘round experience. – The on water sessions met my paddling needs – the variety of coaches and paddling locations gave me an plenty of opportunity to stretch and challenge myself, and take away skills and drills to continue learning after the symposium. – The off water time provided plenty of opportunity to interact with friends, meet new paddlers and coaches. – The final added bonus was connecting with members of the community, at the community dinner, and knowing that they were happy to have the symposium in the area. Everything from car horns blasting as folks paddled at the Argyle River, to waves and shouts of encouragement from folks along the shore near the Forchu Lighthouse, and folks in boats on the water watching sessions, and commenting on and asking questions about the things they saw when they were at the dinner.

West Pubnico Fire Cheif Gordon Amiro and Odette D’eon acceting a cheque from Christopher Lockyer Executive Directory of the Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium.

In the face of the wildfire that swept through the South West Nova Scotia area in the spring of 2023, our community rallied together with resilience and generosity. The devastation left behind by the fires affected vast expanses of forested land and numerous residential areas. Recognizing the crucial role of our local fire departments, particularly the dedicated volunteers of the Vollentee Fire Department, who serve as the backbone of rural communities in Nova Scotia, we felt compelled to support their efforts. As a member of my local fire department, I understand the physical and financial challenges these heroes face daily. This year, during our symposium, we organized a silent auction, receiving generous product contributions from esteemed paddling retailers like Kokatat and P&H Sea Kayak. With the collective efforts of our community, we were thrilled to donate $10,000 to the West Pubnico Fire Department, demonstrating the positive impact we can achieve when we come together in solidarity.

As we wrap up the festivities of our Bay of Fundy Sea Kayak Symposium’s decade celebration, we’re pleased to share some practical details for the future. Take note and mark your calendars, as we’ve set the dates for our upcoming symposium! We invite you to join us for another gathering, filled with paddling, learning, and community spirit. Save the dates of October 4-6, 2025, and plan to be a part of the experience. With a decade’s worth of memories behind us and the expectation of more to come, we’re genuinely excited about the prospect of bringing people together once again. As we count down to 2025, let the anticipation grow, and we look forward to seeing you for what promises to be another memorable chapter in our symposium’s journey! Sea you in 2025

Hulls and Hatches: Saltwater and Whitewater Multi-Days in Corsica

By Carmen Kuntz

On July 4, 2023

In Trip Reports

.: words – Carmen Kuntz

.: photos – Rok Rozman

Hiking trips are great – you have all you need on your back. Bike trips are cool too – with everything neatly tucked into panniers. But when it comes to comfort, carry capacity and the ability to cover some solid kilometers… nothing beats the kayak. Regardless of whether you are a lover of saltwater or whitewater, the kayak is a vessel that allows you to pack all your gear inside your mode of transportation. And this opens up a world of multi-day adventure possibilities.

This spring we had a thirst for on-water exploration, but couldn’t decide between rivers or the sea. So, we brought boats for both. We loaded two Scorches and two Leos onto our truck and rumbled our way to Corsica to dip our paddle in two types of paddling styles, enjoying the simplicity of paddle-powered multi-days.

Sea kayaking is best done in the sun.

And sunshine is what greeted us when our ferry landed in Bastia, Corsica’s primary port town. Mid-April in Corsica can mean that either snowmelt or rain storms fill up the rivers. We were a little late for the former, and a bit too early for the latter, so we sipped some Cap du Corse liquor and poured over the paper map to plan a 6-day sea kayak trip. What better way to wait for the rain than to build up some paddle muscles on the sea!

We drove to the small west coast town of Galéria, which is located approximately on the forehead of the almost-face-shaped island. Parked just meters from the sea, gear was spread out in the parking lot like a yard sale. This was my first multiday-day sea kayak trip, and I was shocked by the amount of gear I could tuck into the hatches and hull of my lime-green Leo. As my boat was swallowing gear, I realized I would have space for my book, paints, a camp chair and some cans of beer. All the luxuries that often get left behind when we go hiking in the mountains of Slovenia. For this holiday-style trip weight wasn’t a concern as we would be floating, paddling (or sailing) our way some 150 km to the Liamone River Delta, and taking our time to do so.

I felt like a pirate as I walked into town to buy provisions – bread, rice, wine, and some local wild boar salami. Rok, on the other hand, was enjoying the puzzle of tucking fishing rods under the elastic hull straps and securing lures and line in the cockpit for easy access. The plan was to catch the protein that would power our paddles.

Once on the water, we glided over the turquoise water, and popped our sails up as soon as we rounded the first point, red rock cliffs and a tailwind greeting us. We used paddles and the power of the wind to trace the coastline, relishing in the details of the rock formations and the scents of the flowering macchia.

As the sun dipped low, we found a beach to camp on and dragged our boats onto the pebble shore, appreciating the sturdy nature of our CoreLite X hulls, which felt stiff and responsive in the water, yet were light enough (and tough enough) to easily move on land. These boats perfectly matched the carefree yet efficient vibe of our trip. On the pebble beach, shoes came off immediately and gear came out, one hatch at a time.

Again, I was surprised – this time by how easy it was to be organized in a long sea kayak. Each hatch had a purpose. Water and other ‘hydration’ liquids in one hatch. Sleeping gear in another. Placing my trust in the watertight hatches meant I didn’t have to wrestle with bulky drybags. Navigation implements (map and phone) were within reach in the small front portal. And the final hatch was home to food – veggies and spices, cookies and coffee.

Rok’s preference for camp spots was based on fishing possibilities, while every beach looked like a piece of paradise to me. He wasted no time in casting a line, and we ate from the sea each day of the trip. From barracuda, to conger eel, amber jack and even a massive snapper! Add rice, garlic, salt and wine, and we ate like kings!

Each day we were treated to sunshine, blue skies and often a tailwind – a real treat on the exposed west coast of the island. We had easy morning coffees, packed and paddled, some days not before noon! We stopped at a couple of seaside villages for ice cream and sightseeing, castles on rocky outcrops drawing us in. We played the lottery daily, gambling on choosing the perfect beach right in front of us, or daring to check the next. Fish over a savory driftwood fire and sipping beer until the stars made their late arrival, our heads hit the pillow each night without worries. We were drunk on the simplicity of having all the gear to be comfortable, while having a vessel that allowed us to explore a coastline that was otherwise completely inaccessible by foot. And doing it all in the season before the crowds and yachts pepper the bays.

We almost lost track of time, enjoying the daily routine of the nomadic life on the sea. But on our sixth day, the weather made the call for us, and we half sailed, half surfed our way onto the kilometres-long Liamone beach, with high winds and waves building and the forecast calling for rain. It was a perfect way to end a trip rich in flavours of the sea, coastal exploration and pure enjoyment of moving over water with all the camping luxuries stowed below deck. Because no matter how much gear and treats you have with you, the weather and the sea provide the real indulgences.

* * *

Whitewater kayaking, on the other hand, is a sport often enjoyed in the rain. But a multiday trip spent dodging raindrops and hiding out under tarps isn’t much fun. So, we let the rain build the rivers up, and when the sunshine returned we packed up and paddled off for an overnight on one of the mellow sections of the Taravo River.

With its source in the mountains near the small village of Cozzano, the river flows mostly southwest meeting the Mediterranean near the town of Propriano, just two big bays down from where our sea kayaking trip ended. We washed the saltwater from our gear on the grade 5 section, but were keen to see more of the river. A night sleeping on the granite banks was one way to satisfy that hunger.

After an hour of mostly floating and sightseeing, we found a flat granite slab with a little eddy tucked behind, and stopped to enjoy the afternoon sun. Packing for a whitewater kayak overnighter (not to be confused with an expedition), is much simpler, as the limited space in your boat ultimately dictates what you can bring. Unpacking my kit, I realized how our luxurious sea kayaking kit was slimmed down for a river trip. Small and simple. Sleeping gear in one back quadrant, safe inside a big drybag. Clothes and cooking gear in separate drybags in the other. And a third drybag in my lap – holding my notebook, snacks, headtorch, toothbrush and other necessities. (Rok’s fishing rod also made the cut, a small tenkara suited for some catch-and-release fishing for the native Corsican trout).

After Asian noodle soup with tuna and veggies, (followed by whiskey and chocolate cookies), we were ready for bed. We taco-ed ourselves in the small tarp and hoped for a dry night, but the steady drizzle that started in the early morning hours eventually forced us out of bed and into drysuits. Like on our sea kayak trip, we left each camp spot without a trace of our presence. The sun broke through after about an hour of paddling, and the trees overhanging the river lit up, in sections forming a disco-green tunnel over the water.

Leaning back and letting the current take us at the river’s pace was much like letting the wind push us along the sea. Going at the pace of nature – with the help of a paddle stroke here and there – we were able to appreciate spring in a way that can’t be done by day trips. These days and nights spent by the water ultimately reminded us that a kayak is more than the sum of all its parts; it allows you the ultimate luxury – being a part of the aquatic environs for a moment or two.

A Short Paddling Trip to Scotland (and a Lot of Cake)

By Sal Montgomery

On June 9, 2023

In Trip Reports

Now, I’m far from being a seasoned sea kayaker, in fact, I’m actually a whitewater kayaker, but when the opportunity came up for a few days of exploring in Scotland with good pals, I wasn’t going to turn it down!

For anyone here that’s also a whitewater kayaker, you may know that I’ve been fortunate enough to work all over the world with TV wildlife presenter, Steve Backshall. It was a big birthday for Stevo this year, and we wanted to make it a memorable one.

This would be unlike any trip I’d done before, mainly because a beautiful 102ft sailing boat known as Lady of Avenel would be our home for the next couple of days. Not only was this an amazing treat, but it would also allow us to paddle and explore to our heart’s content. Stefan Fritz owned the Lady and would be our fantastic skipper, accompanied by friend of the ship, Patrick Winterton (of Scot Ocean Sports), who had kindly offered to join us, sharing his local knowledge and expertise, as well as excellent company!

Unlike our usual missions, the aim was not to conquer anything big and gnarly, discover unknown territories, or document grizzly bear behaviour, it was simply to have fun with friends, paddling somewhere new -and that’s exactly what we did!

Day 1
Our adventure started from Dunstaffnage marina, near the town of Oban, and as always, began with a healthy chunk of kit faff. It appeared that the vital bag of PFDs and breakdown paddles was sitting on Steve’s driveway almost 500 miles away. Steve 1 blamed Steve 2 (Backshall) and Steve 2 blamed Steve 1. Thankfully we managed to beg, borrow, and steal enough gear for everyone and were finally sailing out of the marina, accompanied by some playful porpoise!

We were heading towards the Isle of Lismore, or Lios Mòr, which is thought to mean ‘Great Garden’ in Gaelic and relates to the green and fertile lowlands on this small, Inner Hebrides island. About 180 people live on the 10-mile long by 1-mile wide island, as well as a rich population of seals, otters, peregrine falcons, and razorbills.

With the Lady’s anchor down, we set off in our sea kayaks past the tall, white Musdile lighthouse in calm waters and glorious sunshine, surrounded by black guillemots and squawking seagulls. Continuing west, we passed a small skerry known as ‘Lady’s Rock’, before reaching Duart Castle on the Isle of Mull. It was here that Patrick told us the gruesome, but slightly comical story behind these landmarks and how this seemingly indistinct skerry got its name…

Way back in 1527, a rather unpleasant chap called Lachlan Maclean of Duart rowed his wife, Lady Catherine Campbell to this tiny chunk of rock in the sea, leaving her there to drown once high tide came around. Looking out from his castle window the next morning and seeing no life, he announced Catherine’s death. The plan backfired somewhat when his conversation with
Catherine’s family about the ‘terrible illness’ that took her life was abruptly interrupted by the Lady herself walking into the room and joining them at the dining table!

After a quick stop in the bay at Duart Point, we crossed northeast through the Bernera gap and along Lismore’s west coast -where lots of seals were either sunbathing on the beach or bobbing up beside our kayaks! We then rejoined the ship and crossed from Lismore to Port Appin on the mainland.

We pulled in at Airds Bay, where we were met by seals enjoying the evening sun and a bagpiper playing happy birthday for Stevo -a surprise we’d set up with the help of skipper, Stefan! The anchor went down and a night of celebrations followed, including two very large cakes.

Day 2
The Lady sailed us from Airds Bay to Kerrera Island, which at 7km long and 2km wide is home to approximately 70 people. Two communities exist on the island- north and south, and a road connecting the two was only developed a couple of years ago!

Life on Kerrera is not for everyone, especially as residents have to travel to mainland Scotland for everyday basics such as schools, shops, post offices, banks, and health services; however, it boasts some of the best highland island views, which we got to enjoy until we reached just north of the Slate Island of Siel. Here we launched the sea kayaks and paddled the relatively narrow sea channel between the island and the mainland (only 12km between the two) and under the ‘Bridge over the Atlantic’ (Clachan Bridge).

It had been relatively calm and sheltered as we paddled through the Sound of Siel, but as we etched further south the wind really started to ramp up. Rounding the southern tip of Siel, the increasing wind put an abrupt end to our noisy chatter and banter, instead adopting the ‘head down and paddle’ approach! This was amplified even more so when we met the boiley currents of the Sound of Cuan and even stronger winds.

After the gruelling gales and confusing currents, Patrick waved us over to a small harbour in a tiny village called Easdale. Earlier that day, we’d all thought that he’d been joking when he talked about World Rock Skimming Championships. However, it turns out that this is actually a thing and
this is where it’s hosted each year. Patrick announced that we weren’t allowed to leave Easdale until we had at least one round of competition.

Obviously, Patrick was a regular here, as his rock skims pretty much covered the entire length of the natural pool. After some embarrassingly bad attempts on my behalf, we got into our kayaks and back into the wind, spotting several Oyster Catchers with their long, orange bills and loud ‘peeping’ call, along the way. By the time we rejoined the Lady, everyone was ready for a cup of tea and of course, more cake.

By the evening, the winds had died down and the Lady made her way back up to Kerrera. Here we enjoyed one last night all together (with more cake), before getting up early for a day of sea swimming and journeying back to Oban.

There are over 40 islands making up the Inner Hebrides islands and we’d only scraped the surface, leaving plenty to come back and explore another time. We’d been limited to just a couple of short days here in Scotland, but we all shared the feeling that we’d had so much during that time. Everything from glorious sunshine to storms and strong winds; calm seas to confused currents and spinning whirlpools; porpoises, seals and lots of sea birds; kayaking, swimming and sailing; laughs, banter, long overdue catch-ups; and of course, a lot of cake.

Thank you, Scotland and we’ll be back soon!

Huge ‘thank you’s go to Steve and the crew for a very fun and memorable trip; S1 for driving and putting up with me for two very long car journeys; Stefan, Jules, and Samantha for looking after us so well on the Lady of Avenel; Patrick of Scots Ocean Sports for the local knowledge, guidance, and excellent company for our sea kayaking explorations.

Images: Steve Backshall, Rosie Gloyns, Keith Partridge, James Brickell, Sal Montgomery

Paddling the Chalk Cliffs of Møn – Denmark

By Björn

On December 20, 2022

In Trip Reports

Many say the island called Møn in the eastern part of the Danish Baltic Sea is the most beautiful island with the most spectacular section of coastline in the whole of the little Kingdom. This means a lot because the country is supposed to own 1,400 islands and a coastline of more than 7000 km in length. I could quite agree with that, but I have not even seen yet maybe 150 of their islets.

What makes it stand out from the others are its chalk cliffs. The white walls called Møns Klint stretch for about 7 km along the eastern coast of Møn. They consist of shells that accumulated 70 million years ago on the seabed of an ancient tropic sea. Billions of microscopic plankton with chalk skeletons made up a thick layer of sediment, that was later exposed by the glaciers of the ice age. If you are lucky enough you can find fossils of shellfish or sea urchins at the foot of the cliffs.

The highest point, the Dronningestolen, reaches 128 m above the sea level of the Baltic Sea. This kind of rock is also common on both sides of the English Channel like in famous places like Étretat in France, or the White Cliffs of Dover. A wonderful old beech forest that grows alongside the cliff sets the Danish wall apart.

The best time to paddle along this coast is the early morning when the sunrise hits the white, carbonate rock. If the weather is right you will paddle under the glowing “Klint” and look up in awe and wonder as there are plenty of cracks, little towers, and fallen trees along the shore to see.

But the Island has more to offer than the Klint. When you paddle around it, which means about a 110-kilometre distance and approximately 3 days of paddling, you will encounter long and empty sandy beaches and the cute little town of Steege with its historic centre.

The western shores of Møn are pretty sheltered by a lot of small islands, some only inhabited by cows and birds. On the narrow points, you will encounter a little tidal and wind-induced flow.

The main stretch of the route around the island is open to the waves of the Baltic Sea which can be pretty powerful when the wind stirs up over 5 Beaufort. A wonderful thing is the Danish system of free overnight places in the wild, called “Overnantinig i det fri”. Those are designated sites specially reserved for hikers, bikers, or paddlers. Along the shore of Møn you will find some of them in tactical, well-suited positions for a circumnavigation if combined with one of the normal camping sites. Some “Overnantinig i det fri” sites offer Scandinavian-type open wooden shelters and fireplaces, which are perfect for sitting out bad weather.

If you bring your fishing gear alongside and buy a cheap Danish fishing license in a post office, you can catch some sea trout and mackerel to enrich your cooking. So why not visit the little kingdom of Denmark and bring your sea kayak?

There is much more to discover. You can paddle alongside Copenhagen’s City or surf the waves of the North Sea in Klittmöller or Hvide Sande. Looking for a mellow camping trip? Paddle the Limfjord which offers wonderful nature, many “Overnattning i det fri” places, and an intricate system of water bodies…

Lake Schwerin With a Sea Kayak

By Björn

On November 14, 2022

In Trip Reports

Lake Schwerin (Schweriner See) is situated in the north of Germany in a county called Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and measures approximately 62 km², which ranks it 4th among the biggest German lakes. Carved out by the glaciers of the Ice Age, it is nowadays a proper paddling ground for sea kayakers.

The vast nature along its shore is a good reason to visit this gem of a lake. A good deal of its shore is accompanied by beech tree forests and floodplain forests that are dominated by alder and ash trees.

In the branches of the trees, you may spot white-tailed eagles. Kingfishers hunt small fishes close to shore. You can listen to the trumpeting sounds of cranes, which usually are hidden in the vast fields of reed that spread over several bays. Spotting them is hard except in migrating time when groups of hundreds pass over the lake frequently.

If you are a fan of culture, you will not be disappointed here either. The Castle of Schwerin is called the Neuschwanstein of North Germany. Built on the remains of an older fortress it was changed over time. Its contemporary face was built in the middle of the 19th century by architect Adolf Demmler with the simplicity of Prussian Neoclassicism and a sense of elegance in mind.

In modern times the castle became the seat of regional parliament. With a kayak, you can paddle around its walls and enjoy the view better than anyone else. Several islands that can be visited by kayak are another reason to cruise here.

Last but not least there are two possibilities to camp in designated places on the islands with your tent. A possibility that is rare in other places in Germany.

When the wind is strong, like in the off-season, you may have the possibility to change from cruising to surfing mode and paddle downwind in steep and powerful waves.

To sum up you will find a good deal of reasons to put your kayak into the water at Lake Schwerin!

A Quick Hit in Pembrokeshire

By Sid Sinfield

On October 21, 2021

In Trip Reports

With an uncharacteristic spell of good weather, some midweek time off booked, and a willing companion, a quick trip to Pembrokeshire was called for.

My partner in crime, Adam Harmer, and I were keen to claim three of Pembrokeshire’s classic trips back to back before the weather broke. We loaded up my Cetus X and Adam’s Volan MV and drove the majority of the way after work. The ‘Park for the night’ app found us a quiet location. Adam bagged the back of the van whilst I slept under the stars in my seldom-used Hooped bivi-bag. So seldom used in fact that I had forgotten it had a broken ‘hoop’ which meant a somewhat ‘dew soaked’ night, which is the price to pay for such a clear, starry night in October when sleeping high in the Preseli Hills.

Looking east towards St Govan’s head from our lunch spot.

The first trip on our hit list was the Castlemartin coast from Freshwater West to Stackpole Quay. Probably one of the most scenic sections of coastline in Britain. A quick check that the firing range wasn’t firing, and with the tides to check which direction we’d need to take, and all was on. Our continued spell of good fortune continued when a phone call to a friend sorted the shuttle for us. Ben would pick up the van and deposit it at the end for us all whilst we were enjoying the coastline. The low swell and light winds meant that we could explore all the hidden ‘nooks and crannies’ this section of the coast provides. The firing range does somewhat restrict landing options but we managed a rocky shore landing in front of St Govan’s Chapel and I managed to get a few snaps off from the hastily flown drone before ‘restricted airspace’, again, due to the firing range, forced it back to land. After a short leg-stretch, we continued our journey to the beautiful Stackpole Quay and waiting coffee shop. Ben had indeed delivered the van and journey one of three had been bagged in perfect conditions.

Day 2 saw us relocate to the car park just above Martin’s Haven – the next objective was Skomer and Skokholm. The tides dictated a very early start and hence a ‘stealth’ camp in the car park to be on the water at first light. Tidal planning dictated a 7 am launch, declining winter light meant that it was in fact 7:20 am before we could see sufficiently to cross ‘Jack’s Sound’ and start our anti-clockwise circumnavigation of the two islands. My calculations had indicated that we need to be on the south side of Skokholm before 9 am to avoid fighting the tide and to enjoy a tide assisted return. Despite the delayed launch, we were perfectly located on the south side at 9:10 am. So we managed to return to Martin’s Haven with the tide behind us and in time for a well-earned ‘brunch’ followed by a flying visit to a friend’s campsite for a refreshing shower to remove two days of salt encrustment. Trip two of three completed.

The third trip on the flying visit was out to South Bishop lighthouse and a circumnavigation of Ramsey. Again, the tides dictated an early start and another ‘stealth’ camp in the van in the car park above Whitesands beach.

There’s us just in the bottom of the shot

We couldn’t afford any light delays this time as calculations indicated that we needed to be at the lighthouse for 9 am after which the tide would be against us. So we launched at 7 am in the gloomy twilight, through a few small breaking waves and on to a stunning flat sea, the twinkling lighthouse our distance target on the horizon. As we reached St David’s head we had increasing daylight which allowed us to settle into the ferry glide down and across to our first target, Careg Rhoson. A quick upping of the pace as we neared this target got us nicely into the eddy behind the collection of islands. The majority of the hard work done, we now dropped down with the tide passing Daufraich and its infamous ‘sump’, (not the place you want to take a sea kayak!) to the north coast of South Bishop where the tricky steep steps and only landing spot are located. But would the swell allow us to land? Many have paddled out here and then not been able to land due to the swell and strong tidal flow. But our luck once again held out and a tricky but straightforward landing saw us on the dry land of the island at 08:45hrs. I’m not sure who was most shocked, us when we bumped into the lighthouse keepers who had arrived the day before, or them when two heads appear up the ‘condemned steps’ just in time for a breakfast cuppa.

The ‘condemned steps’ leading from kayaks to the lighthouse.

After a hastily drunk brew and tour of the lighthouse, we refloated. I had a minor hiccup resulting in a slow-motion capsize whilst relaunching from the rocky steps, which was the only break in our luck for the whole trip, but nothing other than pride was damaged. We ferry glided the early flooding tide to round the south end of Ramsey and float through the Bitches, where we enjoyed a quick play, before landing once again at Whitesands for a well-earned bacon butty. The early finish also meant we could be home in time for some bonus ‘brownie’ points with our respective loved ones. Three classic trips in three days in Perfect conditions. October in Pembrokeshire delivered. The weather did indeed break the next day with force 6+ winds racking the whole west coast of Wales.

Photos and text – Sid Sinfield

Looking back toward North Bishop, Careg Rhoson, and Daufraich from inside the lighthouse.

Product Issue Notification: Thin Cockpit Rims

By P&H Custom Sea Kayaks

On October 5, 2021

In Trip Reports

We recently became aware of a number of polyethylene P&H Sea Kayaks which had insufficient thickness towards the rear of the cockpit rim and were therefore more prone to splitting in this area.

Affected batches were produced in late 2019/early 2020; you can ascertain the production date of your kayak by looking at the last 4 digits of the serial number, with the letter denoting the month (‘A’ being January, ‘B’ being February, and so on) the first number being the last digit of the calendar year, and the final two numbers being the last two digits of the US model year (changing in August).

If you believe your boat to be affected, please email help@pyranha.com with your address, the serial number, model, size, and colour of your kayak, and which dealer it was purchased from.

No other batches are affected, although it is possible that other boats may split in this region for different reasons, such as:

Frequently sitting directly on the back of the cockpit rim.
Transporting the boat with the cockpit rim against an unpadded roof rack.
Storing the boat with the cockpit rim against an unpadded rack.
Extreme or high-frequency usage.

A Cockpit Rim Repair & Reinforcement Kit is available for instances where a cockpit rim split has occurred outside of the warranty duration or conditions.

Stac Mhic Aonghais

By Will Copestake

On September 7, 2021

In Trip Reports

Over the upcoming months and likely into our next summer season, I’ve decided to pursue a project around what is, in a way, what I call ‘my office’. As we are now drawing toward the end of a fourth season operating Kayak Summer Isles, in the north west of Scotland, I’ve spent many hundreds of days getting to know, sharing, and exploring these islands. It’s safe to say I know them well.

I figure the next step of really embedding myself into the islands is to spend a night on them.

Some of which I do on a regular basis with our guests, but many others (the rocks and skerries) I’ve not even landed on yet. By my count there are 17 ‘proper’ islands and 15 rocks and skerries big enough to safely camp and land on, making a total of 32 nights in the archipelago.

I won’t make them all in a season, as some will mean waiting until the bird colonies move off in winter so I won’t disturb them. What ones I can do now I hope to tackle in ‘evening blasts’ after work and before starting the next day’s guiding.

What better way to start than the iconic and rugged skerry that is Stac Mhic Aonghais.

Local legend has it, that the name comes from a man who was laid prisoner on this lonely and desolate rock. Purportedly having had ‘intimate relations’ with a laird’s daughter, he was rowed out and abandoned as a ‘time out and think about what you’ve done’. Ahh, young love.

By day 3 Angus’s captors must have felt guilty, as they then rowed out to check on him. Upon landing they were surprised to discover that Angus had gone!

Combing the island, they strayed further from their boat and with a sudden race, Angus leapt from a crevice in the rocks, hopped aboard and dis-embarked, waving cheery farewell as his captors became the captives.

Some accounts say he rowed, whilst others claim he had no oars and set adrift. Either way, he landed on Stoer Head some 30km north and survived.

The boat still remains with Angus’s relatives, and there’s been bad blood between the two families ever since . . . apparently.

I wonder if he ever managed to meet the laird’s daughter ever again?

Kayaking out in the evening, I set off from shore around 7.30 pm, with little over an hours light left in the day. I was tired from a day’s guiding but equally excited to disappear for a night’s vagabond adventure, following in Angus’s footsteps for a night on his rock.

The island is 1km south of Tanera Beag and even with the wind in favour and using the tidal eddies to my advantage, the journey took an hour from Old Dornie Harbour. The light was waning.

I’d taken my ultra-lightweight kevlar/carbon infusion Aries, as I figured it’d be easier to haul up the rocks on my shoulders fully laden with camp and cookware, but in hind-sight maybe a plastic boat that I could have dragged may have been a wiser move. Arriving at high tide, I found a crevice without swell on the eastern shore and set about navigating the 40º sloped sides with the boat on my shoulder. Delicate footsteps and my free hand scrambling brought me up to a ledge where I could at last anchor the kayak.

By necessity, I needed to return early the next morning, meaning leaving at the low tide. Before setting camp, I scouted about and picked my exit route as my prior access would be untenable at the lower tidal state. A scramble, toss, and a leap seemed likely.

The stac was largely rock, with a bristling hair of lichens adorned across the top. Around the corner, on the wind-battered western cliffs, I could hear a bird colony, out of sight but not out of sound.

Many, if not all of the possible flat spots were waterlogged with bright green algal pools. To my delight on the summit, a single large flat slab presented a near-perfect bed. Surrounded on all sides by a small rocky lip, it cradled the sense of security atop the island and granted a fantastic view. Darkness was fast approaching.

Bivi bag out on the rock, I scoffed a quick dinner, took a few photos and then settled into bed. The sound of the low swell pounding below me, and the occasional whoosh of birds flying past lulled a sense of calm. The air was warm, and as hoped for a breeze kept any midges at bay.

By 2 am, the full moon had risen, bathing the island in a silvery light, enough to see without a head-torch. 20km to my east, I could see the lights of Ullapool, home, in the distance.

The breeze had dropped, as had the swell, leaving the island eerily calm. Below me, I could hear a pshhht coming from some form of cetacean nearby, most likely a porpoise, but I liked to imagine a whale.

My alarm wasn’t necessary. As it turns out seagulls also wake with the first hint of dawn, and their calls as they fledged their roosts around the corner was sufficient to wake me. A faint orange glow was rising as I re-packed my kayak and carefully carried it down the rocks, thankful for the barnacles to give some grip.

Clipped to my kayak, I tossed it into the gentle swell and leapt aboard under head-torch. Once decked on, I turned my light off, preferring to navigate by the dawn glow. It was 5 am.

Returned to Ullapool before the day begun, I arrived home, showered and packed, ready to re-pack and head back on the water with guests. I felt satisfied like I’d stolen a secret adventure through the night, unseen and unknown until dawn. Most of all however I was thankful not to leave the island and drift north to Stoer, wondering if I’d ever return again.

If you’d like to share my island adventures as I try to camp on each follow me on @willcopestake (Instagram and YouTube) and via #summerislessleeps, or better still, join me through www.kayaksummerisles.com